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本帖最后由 qingyuanzh 于 2021-12-27 15:17 编辑
My initial impression of Fuqing was much the same as many Chinese cities I’ve been to. A sprawling mass of concrete apartment blocks and wide noisy roads. 我对福清最初的印象与我曾去过的大部分的中国城市差不多：大量的钢筋水泥混凝土楼房和宽阔嘈杂的路面。
My wife and I had planned to visit for the weekend. But on the Friday night as we walked from our hotel to the centre, we wondered if there would be much here. 我和妻子计划周末游览。但在星期五的晚上，我们从酒店走到城市中心时，我们想这里似乎还有很多值得看的地方。
That night, we walked to Wanda (the chain shopping complex) and ate ice-cream in Hong Kong waffles on Golden Street. This was the most interesting of many of Wanda’s Golden Streets we’d seen on our travels in China, with cascades of colourful lanterns and parasols dancing in the breeze on wires overhead. 晚上，我们去了万达（连锁购物中心），在黄金大道上，我们吃了香港华夫的冰淇淋。在中国的旅途中，我们去过的许多万达黄金街上，五颜六色的灯笼和纸伞总是在头顶的线上随风飘舞，这真的十分有趣。
Our real destination wasn’t the city, however, but the villages that surrounded it. We found they helped paint Fuqing with unique character that made it well worth a visit, despite first appearances. 我们真正的目的地不是这座城市，而是它附近的乡村。除去最初呈现的样子，这些乡村以独特的特征描摹了福清，让我们觉得福清还是值得一看的。
Read on to discover my first impressions of the villages outside Fuqing. 一起来看看我对福清周围乡村的第一印象吧。
Saturday took us in search of Fuqing’s South Shaolin temple. This is the smallest of three Shaolin temples in Fujian, all of which claim to be the 2,500-year-old original South Shaolin temple of legend. 星期六，我们探索了福清南少林。这是福建的三座南少林最小的一座，这些南少林都对外宣称自己是有着2500年历史的传说中的正宗南少林。（注：实际上正宗南少林只在福清，福清文证物证俱在。莆田和泉州只有文证，甚至文证其实也是福清南少林）
Baidu maps has placed this in the village of Dongzhangzhen, just north of the massive reservoir that lies northwest of Fuqing. Our Didi driver seemed surprised, however, when we arrived to find no temple. The local villagers instead directed us eighteen kilometers further – away from the reservoir and into the hills. 百度地图标注这里属于东张镇，东张镇位于福清西北部一个大型水库的北边。当我们到达东张镇时却没有找到寺庙，我们的滴滴司机对此也非常惊讶。当地居民指引我们离开水库，去了18公里外的山里。
We stepped out from the car onto soft ground, muddy from the previous night’s rains. The air was fresh with the scent of mountain pines. We stood and gazed out over the raised dirt ford across the dried-out stream. 我们下了车，走到松软的地面上，前一晚的雨让地面泥泞不堪。 空气清新，散发着山松的香气。 我们站在干涸的溪流对面，凝视着凸起的泥滩。
We explored the temple grounds, marveling at the golden Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, and the tall stone Bodhisattva, Guanyin, who overlooked the construction from above. 我们探索了寺庙的地面，惊叹于佛和菩萨的金身，以及从高处俯瞰地面的高大观音石像。
This Angry Looking Dog Guarded the Temple Grounds.There wasn’t any sign of the Shaolin monks. Only an angry looking dog with squinty eyes like George Bush Jr. which guarded the deserted school at the top 这只愤怒的小狗守卫者寺庙，不见少林寺僧人，只有这只眯着眼睛的愤怒小狗，就像山顶上守卫废弃学校的小布什。 On leaving, we realized we had no clue how to return. We knew there were buses, but we didn’t know when and where to find them. 离开的时候，我们才意识到不知如何返回，我们知道有公交车，但不知何时何地可以找到。
Fortunately, a kind elderly couple offered to drive us back. They dropped us off at Dongzhangzhen village. There we took some time to explore the village’s canola farms, honey bees from the local hives buzzing all around us and spectacular views of the reservoir beyond. We traversed across to a park which led down to a lakeside beach, from where we watched cranes skim over the still waters. 幸运的是，一对好心的老夫妇主动提出送我们回去，他们把我们送到东张镇。在那里，我们花了一些时间探索了村里的油菜花田地，当地蜂巢的蜜蜂在我们周围嗡嗡作响，我们还欣赏了远处水库的壮丽景色。我们穿过一个公园，通向湖边的海滩，从那里我们可以看到鹤（应是白鹭）掠过平静的水面。
Haikou Town and Mi Le Fo 海口镇和弥勒佛
The following day, we left Fuqing in search of another idol. We’d heard of a massive Laughing Buddha as long and wide as it is tall, just north of Haikou town. 第二天，我们离开福清，去寻找另一个佛像。我们听说在海口镇的北部有一尊巨大的微笑着的佛，它是如此的高大而宽阔。
This time, we knew the way by bus. We ended up a little down the road from Longjiang bridge (a Song dynasty stone bridge that spans the Longjiang estuary), passing a duck farm and a troop of goats. 这次，我们知道如何坐公交车。经过一个养鸭场和一群羊，我们在龙江桥上停住了，这是横跨龙江河口的宋代石桥。
We must have stayed on the bridge for a good half hour, while I photographed cranes and cormorants that had perched themselves on small sandy islands. Mopeds whizzed by as I did. 我们在古桥上度过了美妙的半个小时，这期间，我们拍到了白鹭和栖息在小沙洲上的鸬鹚。
We eventually crossed into Haikou town where children rode bicycles through narrow streets, between buildings made of dirty red brick. It felt as if we’d entered another age, quite a world apart from the concrete jungle of Fuqing. 我们最终穿过了海口镇，在这个镇上，孩子们骑着自行车在狭窄的街道和肮脏的红砖房间穿行。与福清市的混凝土森林相比，这让我们感到穿越到了另一个年代。
After a lunch of carp fresh from the tank and prepared the Chinese way in soy sauce and ginger, we walked a more modern road towards Niuzhaicun village. The rhythmic sound of machinery thrumming from a quarry behind. 在一顿新鲜的红烧鲤鱼午餐之后，我们从一条更现代化的道路向牛宅村前进，背后的采石场发出了机械的轰鸣声。
Again, the map proved to be wrong, although this time the fault wasn’t Baidu but Tripadvisor. We had to ask a couple of local schoolgirls for directions. They responded by wilfully escorting us to Mi Le Fo, the site of the Laughing Buddha. 地图再次被证明是错误的，虽然这次错的并不是百度，而是旅游顾问网站。我们不得不向当地的女学生求助。她们执意送我们到了弥勒岩，就是那尊微笑着的佛的所在地。
teps rose to Mi Le Fo’s right, into a cloister of temple pagodas where incense smoke had settled between the boulders. This led around the back of the Laughing Buddha to the other side where a small dog in pyjamas played beside the pond. 从米勒佛的右侧，可以进入一座寺庙，那里有一座佛塔，香气在佛塔间环绕。 在微笑的佛的背面，一只穿着睡衣的小狗在池塘边玩耍。 We climbed another set of stairs to discover Buddhist shrines nestled within grottos that emanated a sense of spirituality as old as the rocks themselves. The path seemed to lead further into the mountains, but the sky threatened rain and we had to get back to Xiamen. 我们爬上了另一边的楼梯，发现了坐落在岩洞里的佛教圣殿，散发出一种与岩石本身同样古老的精神气息。小路似乎通向深山，但受迫于老天爷下雨的威胁，我们不得不返回厦门
Later at Fuqing train station, a poster in Chinese displayed a photo of the South Shaolin temple with the words (translated): “The source of Fujian. Remember your roots.” 后来在福清动车站，海报上印着南少林照片，上面的文字写到：福建之源，记住你的根。
I’m not sure if Fujian’s temple is the original South Shaolin Temple. But both there and at Mi Le Fo, I felt a sense of being transported back in time. 我不确定南少林是否为福建寺庙之源，但在那里与弥勒佛，我有一种回到过去的感觉。
get to fuqing 去福清
Fuqing is on the main Chinese east coast train line from Beijing to Shenzhen. The train station is outside of town, so you may need to use a taxi to get to your hotel. 福清位于中国东部从北京到深圳沿海动车线上。动车站在市郊，你需要打的到酒店。
When we were there, no easily accessible buses that went to the South Shaolin temple, and so we had to use the Chinese Uber-like taxi service, Didi to get there (tip: ask your hotel staff for help). 当我们到那里后，并没有去南少林的直达公交，我们不得不使用中国类似优步的的士服务－－滴滴去南少林（可以寻求酒店服务员的帮助）
We used Baidu maps to navigate by bus from Fuqing to Haikou town. This does, however, need a little bit of deciphering Chinese. 从福清到海口，我们用baidu地图坐公交导航，这当然要懂一点中文。
Thanks for reading my article about Fuqing at Being a Nomad. An edited version of this article was first published in the Xiamen Daily newspaper. Have you ever visited any Chinese sites (temples or otherwise) off the tourist trail? If so, please let us know about it in the comments. We’d love to hear about your adventure. 谢谢阅读我的关于福清的文字。本文的编辑版本首次发表在厦门日报上。你是否去过一些远离旅游路线的中国景点（寺庙或其他）？如果是这样，请在评论中告诉我们。我们很想听听你的冒险经历。
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