“佛跳墙”和研创者福清名厨郑春发的故事
<p></p><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.544px; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; justify-content: flex-start; visibility: visible; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px -70px 0px 0px; padding: 23px 23px 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: auto; flex: 100 100 0%; align-self: flex-start; height: auto; z-index: 2; box-shadow: rgb(0, 0, 0) 0px 0px 0px; visibility: visible;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; text-align: center; transform: translate3d(1px, 0px, 0px); visibility: visible;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px; text-align: justify; visibility: visible;"><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; visibility: visible; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">中华“福”文化源自中国的民间民俗文化，历史悠久，博大精深。伴随着华夏5000年文明进程的，是至今仍为全世界津津乐道的中国饮食文化，以及“舌尖上的中国”蕴涵的人文情怀，寄托的人们对健康的关注、对亲人的祝愿、对美好生活的期望等中华“福”文化。<br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; visibility: visible;"/></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; visibility: visible; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; visibility: visible;"/></p></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; text-align: right; justify-content: flex-end; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; visibility: visible;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; display: inline-block; width: 237.5px; vertical-align: top; flex: 0 0 auto; height: auto; align-self: flex-start; visibility: visible;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; visibility: visible;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); height: 1px; visibility: visible;"><svg viewbox="0 0 1 1" style="float: left; line-height: 0; width: 0px; vertical-align: top; visibility: visible;"></svg></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; text-align: center; transform: translate3d(1px, 0px, 0px); visibility: visible;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px; text-align: justify; visibility: visible;"><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; visibility: visible; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">民以食为天。远古时代物资不丰，先民们以祈盼丰衣足食作为最基本的福愿。随着经济发展社会繁荣，人们的饮食日益讲究。中国地域辽阔，至民国时期，形成了鲁菜、川菜、粤菜、苏菜、闽菜、浙菜、湘菜、徽菜“八大菜系”。</p></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; text-align: right; justify-content: flex-end; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; visibility: visible;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; display: inline-block; width: 237.5px; vertical-align: top; flex: 0 0 auto; height: auto; align-self: flex-start; visibility: visible;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; visibility: visible;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; background-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); height: 1px; visibility: visible;"><svg viewbox="0 0 1 1" style="float: left; line-height: 0; width: 0px; vertical-align: top; visibility: visible;"></svg></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; text-align: center; transform: translate3d(1px, 0px, 0px); visibility: visible;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px; text-align: justify; visibility: visible;"><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; visibility: visible; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">闽菜以擅制山珍海味著称。素有“闽菜之首”之称的“佛跳墙”，集闽菜之大成，距今已有百年历史。清朝时期，“佛跳墙”曾被列为宫廷御宴满汉全席首推的极品，新中国成立后又经常在重大外事活动中，作为招待外国元首的第一道主菜，享有“中华第一汤”的美誉。</p></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: auto; min-width: 10%; flex: 0 0 auto; height: auto; align-self: flex-start; visibility: visible;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; transform: perspective(0px); transform-style: flat; visibility: visible;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; transform: rotateY(180deg); visibility: visible;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; display: inline-block; width: 100px; height: 200px; vertical-align: top; overflow: hidden; border-width: 0px; border-style: none; border-color: rgb(62, 62, 62); box-shadow: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0) 0px 0px 0px; background-image: radial-gradient(at 0px 50%, rgb(255, 234, 128) 0%, rgba(255, 234, 128, 0) 70%); visibility: visible;"><svg viewbox="0 0 1 1" style="float: left; line-height: 0; width: 0px; vertical-align: top; visibility: visible;"></svg></section></section></section></section></section><p></p><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); visibility: visible; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; visibility: visible; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; visibility: visible;"/></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; visibility: visible; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; visibility: visible;"/></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; visibility: visible; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; visibility: visible;"/></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; visibility: visible; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px; visibility: visible;">“佛跳墙”的研创者，是福清的郑春发。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; visibility: visible; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">清朝咸丰六年（1856），郑春发出生于福清城关南门。11岁那年，郑春发的父亲离世，他和母亲生计无着，于次年由同乡、外称“坊巷名厨”的叶依嫩带到福州，进入他开设的“源春馆”酒店当学徒。郑春发聪颖厚道，吃苦耐劳，深得叶依嫩喜爱。后来“源春馆”停业，叶依嫩带着郑春发前往苏杭京沪粤等地的名菜馆当帮厨。其间，郑春发得以接触和研学各地佳肴的主要特色与烹饪技艺。</span></p><section style="margin: 16px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; text-align: center;"></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; text-indent: 0em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">光绪二十一年（1895），由恭亲王奕欣推荐，周莲调任厦门道台、福建按察使，不久升任福建布政使。郑春发经人介绍，成了周莲的厨师。周莲对郑春发做的清鲜和荤香而不腻的闽菜很是喜爱，对其高超的技艺十分赏识，两人私交甚密。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">翌年某日，官银局一位官员邀请周莲到其杨桥巷的家中宴饮。周莲带上郑春发前往帮厨。该官员知道周莲是个“吃货”，善于辨味，于是让自己的内眷亲自主厨。该官员内眷别出心裁地把鸡、鸭、鱼翅、刺参、鲍鱼、鱼唇、蹄爪、鸽蛋、羊肘、猪脚、猪肚等10多种原辅料分批投入绍兴酒坛内，用文火慢煨。此菜既上，软嫩柔润，浓郁荤香。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">周莲品尝后赞不绝口，回家后遂命郑春发仿制。郑春发继之屡加研修，凭借深厚功底，方得至妙。他在用料上加以改进，多用海鲜，少用肉类，使成菜的内容更加丰富，并将此菜取名“福寿全”，寓意“吉祥如意、福寿双全”。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 16px; margin-bottom: 16px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></p><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; text-indent: 0em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">之后郑春发离开周莲官邸，集资在福州东街上承接了一家“三友斋”菜馆，先改名“聚春茶园”，后又定名“聚春园”（今福州“聚春园”前身）。“福寿全”成了这家菜馆的主打菜，并以此菜轰动“榕城”。“聚春园”也很快成为培养闽菜名厨的摇篮。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">有一次，一批文人墨客在聚春园聚会，当“福寿全”端上酒桌，启开坛盖时，一股芳香冲坛而出，充溢厅堂。座中一位文人心醉神迷，触发雅兴，即席赋诗道：“坛启荤香飘四邻，佛闻弃禅跳墙来。”众人皆拍手称妙。另外，在福州话中，“福寿全”与“佛跳墙”的发音相似。众人公议后，建议将此菜更名为“佛跳墙”。从此“佛跳墙”正式面世，名扬四海，历经百年而不衰。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">据“佛跳墙”第五代传人吴先生介绍，现在这道菜的主辅用料更加考究，烹制程序更加严格。20多种主要原料经过分别处理，配以香菇、冬笋、香葱、姜片等佐料，装在绍兴酒坛中，用旺火烧沸后，改用文火慢煨。数十种原配料煨在一起，既有共同的荤味，又保持各自的特色，浓郁荤香，又荤而不腻，各料互为渗透，味中有味，具有增强免疫力、美容养颜、温肺润肠等功效。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 16px; margin-bottom: 16px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></p><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; text-indent: 0em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">新中国成立以来，每逢重要外事活动，中央领导人常以“佛跳墙”作为国宴主菜招待外国元首，如英国前女王伊丽莎白、美国前总统里根、新加坡前总理李光耀等，受到广泛赞誉。柬埔寨前国王诺罗敦·西哈努克曾说，“没吃过‘佛跳墙’，就不算吃过中国菜”。日本前首相田中角荣在中国尝过“佛跳墙”后，还将其菜谱带回日本。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">1986年，在福建省名优菜肴评定会上，“佛跳墙”夺得魁首，名列闽菜状元。1990年，“佛跳墙”荣获国家商业部优质产品金鼎奖。2002年，“佛跳墙”在第十二届全国厨艺节中获评中华名宴。2008年6月，经国务院批准，“聚春园佛跳墙制作技艺”列入第二批国家级非物质文化遗产名录。2022年2月，“佛跳墙”入选国家地标美食名录。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 16px; margin-bottom: 16px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></p><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; text-indent: 0em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">在福清方言中，“佛”与“福”同音，“佛跳墙”作为极具“福”文化韵味的菜品，开始回归研创者郑春发的老家福清，逐步成为这方“三福宝地”高端宴席和逢年过节的首选佳肴。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></span></p><hr style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; border-style: solid; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); transform-origin: 0px 0px; transform: scale(1, 0.5); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; text-indent: 0em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">文/图：郑松波</span></section></section><p><br/></p><link rel="stylesheet" href="//www.fqlook.cn/source/plugin/wcn_editor/public/wcn_editor_fit.css?v134_Pdw" id="wcn_editor_css"/> 还有这么多历史故事！！ 原来还有这典故啊 感谢你的分享了 佛跳墙乃闽菜之首 佛跳墙的汤确实很鲜，很好喝，在聚春园吃过两次 中华第一汤名不虚传 低配版的佛跳墙就是坛烧八味 坛启荤香飘四邻，佛闻弃禅跳墙来 好吃看的见啊
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