长崎杂拌面：一段关于福清人海外谋生的历史
<p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-indent: 28px; line-height: 31px; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">在日本，中华料理与西洋料理、日本料理并列为三大菜系。中华料理传到日本后，很多逐渐按日本人的嗜好和口味改造加工，成为带有外来文化特色的日本料理，或者称之为日本的一种国民性料理。</span></span></p><p></p><section data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="105658" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; text-align: center;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 35px 25px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; background-color: rgb(255, 250, 246);"><section data-autoskip="1" style="margin: 20px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; text-align: justify; line-height: 1.75em; letter-spacing: 1.5px; font-size: 14px; color: rgb(98, 93, 86); background: transparent;"><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 28px; line-height: 31px; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">中华料理在日本的传播、普及和创新，与日本华侨紧密相关。长崎是日本华侨的发源地，历史上曾经是东亚、东南亚多边贸易的重要中继中心，</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">400 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">多年前即有华商渡航到日本的长崎、九州各地。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">1858 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">年日本开港后，与长崎华侨有亲缘关系的福清人日益增多，并逐渐形成以福清人为主体的长崎华侨社会。</span></p><section style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; line-height: 31px; text-indent: 0em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></span></section><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 28px; line-height: 31px; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">江户时代，中华料理以唐人寺为媒介传播，普茶料理便是这一阶段的典型，它是由应邀前往日本弘法、首站抵达长崎，来自中国福清的高僧隐元传到日本的精进料理。此后，又有众多的中华料理包括福清特色饮食，随着侨民东渡谋生传到日本，丰富了当地的饮食文化。长崎的“杂拌面”，就见证了福清人海外谋生的一段历史。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 28px; line-height: 31px; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">讲到长崎的“杂拌面”，就要从来自福建福清的华侨陈平顺说起。</span></p></section></section></section></section><p></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: 31px; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 华文中宋; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 20px;"></span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-indent: 28px; line-height: 31px; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">长崎四海楼是陈平顺创立的中华料理店。</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">1892 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">年，陈平顺来到长崎，最初是行商。</span>7年后，他与几位朋友租借了广东会馆的房屋，作为四海楼最早的店面。后来他独立经营，设立了四海楼门店。陈平顺移居长崎生活立业曾得到了亲友帮助，站稳脚跟后他因此常常帮助后来的华侨和留学生。为了使他们吃得好一些，增添在外生活的勇气，陈平顺结合老家福清面食的做法，从长崎近海出产的海产品、豆芽、卷心菜等材料中就地取材，做出色味俱佳的“什锦汤面”，成了流传至今的长崎地域特产“杂拌面”。</span><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-indent: 28px; line-height: 31px; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">“杂拌面”（ちゃんぼん）一词在日语中意为“掺和”，是江户时代出现的词语。对于长崎杂拌面的叫法，四海楼第四代经营者陈优继认为，它（</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">Chanpom</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">）来源于福州福清或闽南方言中</span>“吃饭”的发音，即</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">sepon </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">或</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">japon</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">。这种</span>“什锦汤面”的做法，与现在福清流行的“海鲜面”“焖面”很相似。</span></p><p></p><section style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0em; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: 31px; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-indent: 28px; line-height: 31px; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">物美价廉的杂拌面受到当时留学生的欢迎，很快在华侨居住区普及，并得到了长崎本地人的认可。</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">1905 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">年</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">12 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">月</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">25 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">日，《东洋日之出》报刊登了标题为《四海楼的台湾艺伎》的报道，其中描述了当年前来四海楼客人络绎不绝的景象。</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">1907</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">年出版的《长崎县纪要》中以</span>“书生喜好的料理——</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"> Chanpom</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">”为题，介绍杂拌面是当地学生喜爱的料理。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; text-indent: 28px; line-height: 31px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">四海楼开业后的</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">8</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">年间，长崎陆续开设了十多家杂拌面店，大部分是华人开的。据陈优继介绍，当时开杂拌面店的店主，都曾在四海楼当过学徒。当年一碗杂拌面售价四钱到五钱，而一个面包大概是十钱，即一碗杂拌面比一个面包便宜一半。这也许是杂拌面能受到长崎华侨和当地人欢迎的重要原因。</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">1909 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">年</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">4 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">月</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">5 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">日，《东洋日之出》报又以《长崎的名物名产》为题作了报道，把杂拌面称为简单便宜的长崎特产。</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">1914 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">年发行的《长崎指南》中，也将杂拌面作为长崎最流行的特产进行介绍，还将其写入歌谣中。这表明，</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">20 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">世纪初，杂拌面已经被长崎本地社会所认同。</span></span></p><p style="margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; text-indent: 28px; line-height: 31px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">二战后，作为长崎中餐馆的头牌菜，杂拌面逐渐演变为长崎乡土特色菜和旅游资源，出现了更多由日本人经营的专卖店，在日本有较高的知名度。慕名前来光顾元祖四海楼的客人，除了一般的本地客和外来旅游者外，还有日本国内外各界知名人士，其中包括昭和天皇的兄弟和太子，以及挪威国王五世及夫人等。</span></span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; text-indent: 32px; line-height: 31px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">与长崎杂拌面的普及有直接关系的是长崎滨胜餐厅。滨胜餐厅是由日本商人米滨豪及其兄弟几人创建的。二战后至</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">20</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">世纪</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">60</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">年代，日本面条产业得到很大发展，拉面成为日本人最喜爱的大众料理之一。当时在长崎以外的地方很少能吃到杂拌面，米滨豪决定以长崎杂拌面为产品开发连锁店。米滨兄弟用了半年多的时间进行研发，</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">1974 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">年，店名为</span>“长崎</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">chanmen(</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">ちゃんめん</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">)</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">”的第一家店在长崎正式开业。由于价格便宜味道独特，受到了当地人的欢迎，不久后又开了</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">3 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">家连锁店。</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">1979 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">年，米滨兄弟将企业本部设在东京，并开始在全国各地建立连锁店。</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">1982 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">年，企业正式更名为</span>“</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">Ringer hut( </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">リンガーハット</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">)</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">”（格林小屋）。目前，格林小屋拥有长崎杂拌面连锁店</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">600 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">多家。社长也两次获得日本皇家最高奖蓝授褒章。</span></span></p><p style="margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; text-indent: 28px; line-height: 31px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">长崎杂拌面已成为日本的大众料理，除了格林小屋，以长崎杂拌面为基础打造的各种风格的杂拌面也遍布日本各地，如在日本关西地区有</span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">58 </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">家连锁店的</span>“近江</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">Chanpom</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">”。长崎发源的“</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">Chanpom</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;">”文化也传播到海外，据称韩国杂拌面也源自长崎。</span><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></p><p></p><section style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0em; white-space: normal; line-height: 31px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; text-indent: 28px; line-height: 31px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">长崎是杂拌面的发祥地，杂拌面是长崎中华料理的代表，同时也是长崎的文化旅游资源。长崎人对杂拌面喜欢至极，如今杂拌面店遍布长崎各个角落，从高级酒店到街头小店都会提供杂拌面，经营者既有华人，也有日本人。前来长崎的游客，也会光顾长崎中华街等地的中餐店吃上一碗杂拌面。长崎四海楼作为杂拌面的元祖，每天的客人更是络绎不绝。</span></span></p><hr style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); border-style: solid; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); transform-origin: 0px 0px; transform: scale(1, 0.5); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; white-space: normal; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: 31px; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-family: 宋体; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">图</span>/文：郑松波</span></p><p><br/></p><link rel="stylesheet" href="//www.fqlook.cn/source/plugin/wcn_editor/public/wcn_editor_fit.css?v134_fQo" id="wcn_editor_css"/> 我最喜欢日式拉面了曾经在日本打工的店铺之一，甚是怀念
拌面扁肉才是我的最爱
中华料理在日本的传播、普及和创新，与日本紧密相关
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