苏区里的黄檗古刹

晴天780 发表于 2023-3-16 17:26:42

<style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pic.app.fqlook.com/static/publish/css/style.css?v=1605251010499" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=1605251010499"> <div class="preview_article ">  <p>千年古县宁化，地处闽西武夷山东麓，是福建通往江西的要冲。1930年1月，古田会议刚刚开过，红四方面军第一次统一着装，军容齐整，旌旗猎猎。37岁的毛泽东意气风发，挥笔在宁化写下《如梦令·元旦》。一代伟人用诗词，把宁化定格在历史记忆中：“宁化清流归化，路隘林深苔滑。今日向何方？直指武夷山下。山上山下，风展红旗如画。”</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.fqlook.com/forum/20230316172337front1_0_155891_FnVIa64qqcVRgO96-tFgf1HTswtn.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" alt="" width="1261" height="898" data-qf-origin="forum/20230316172337front1_0_155891_FnVIa64qqcVRgO96-tFgf1HTswtn.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" /></p><section><section><section><section><p>壹</p></section></section><section class="empty_paragraph"></section></section></section><section data-width="94%"><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><p><strong>“宁靖归化”之地</strong></p></section></section><section></section></section><p>毛泽东曾三次率领红军到宁化，宁化也是中央苏区形成之初的21个县之一，是中央红军长征的四个起点县之一。1934年10月6日至8日，驻宁化中央主力红军，分别从各自驻地开往江西于都集结，开始举世闻名的二万五千里长征。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.fqlook.com/forum/20230316172354front1_0_155891_Fp_GbpnMlc2jl9OND4DbK5U7Qc44.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" alt="" width="1080" height="810" data-qf-origin="forum/20230316172354front1_0_155891_Fp_GbpnMlc2jl9OND4DbK5U7Qc44.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" /></p><p>“宁化”之名，含有“宁靖归化”之意，这里地处闽江、赣江、汀江“三江”源头，是人杰地灵所在。近年火爆拍场的伊秉绶，便是宁化城关人。伊秉绶字组似，号墨卿，曾知扬州，有惠政。扬州人将他与欧阳修、苏轼、王士祯并祀于四贤祠。伊秉绶开创隶书一代生面，将隶书艺术成就推向新顶峰。伊秉绶素喜金石碑帖、书画名砚等，梁章钜评价他是“声华满京华，碑版冠当今”。</p><p> </p><section></section><p>伊秉绶同族后人伊光楣，“曳杖叩禅扉”，来到东山古刹，写下“一醒探梅梦，江山举目非；草痕知引路，花气暗薰衣。乳蝶遽遽幻，孤禽柏柏乖；循篱通曲径，曳杖叩禅扉”的诗句。</p><p> </p><section><section><section><section><p><strong>贰</strong></p></section></section><section class="empty_paragraph"></section></section></section><section data-width="94%"><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><p><strong>东溪岸边古刹</strong></p></section></section><section></section></section><section><section>旧志载，东山寺旧称东山庵、万寿寺，主供释迦牟尼佛，寺庙占地五亩多，分为大殿、前厅和厢房，寺内有古井两眼。据《宁化县志˙东山废兴始末记》载：“寺去城东五里。寺基即安氏坟山之支，明永乐间（1403－1424）安氏所施，众建为祝厘万寿之寺也。寺有充饷常住田塘若干亩。”<p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.fqlook.com/forum/20230316172434front1_0_155891_FhW7YB-6IFULOdM5Xfmwok5QaOvv.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" alt="" width="1080" height="1541" data-qf-origin="forum/20230316172434front1_0_155891_FhW7YB-6IFULOdM5Xfmwok5QaOvv.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" /></p><section>春分那天一大早，我们从福清黄檗山出发，中午时分赶到宁化县城郊镇高堑村东山寺。迎面是写有隶书“东山古寺”四字寺院大门，为砖砌牌楼式门楼。寺院主殿是明代所建，其余为历代重修，砖木结构，部分为土墙，属台梁式与斗拱相结合的建筑。门庭有“万里香烟朝北极，一声钟鼓震东山”楹联，大殿正中上方悬挂着“慈宁化境”的匾额。大殿左侧厢房院里，有两株逾百年的山茶花。同行的小张说，前些年他来时，大殿山墙墙面上还有一首诗，但字迹斑驳，就随手拍了下来，仔细辨认，是这样十句：</section><section></section><section></section><section><strong>东山山下烟朦朦，低枝鹰鹤呼秋风。</strong></section><section><strong>东山山巅少人迹，怪石巉岩倚空碧。</strong></section><section><strong>老僧卧起寒云间，短筇扶瘦出松关。</strong></section><section><strong>扫石小坐花丛里，赏心未必空如此。</strong></section><section><strong>据鞍吐气天宇清，千丈红霓万山紫。</strong></section><section></section><section>从这首诗的字里行间，依稀可见当年的东山山色和古刹梵影。古时，这里是“宁化八景”之一的“东山古渡”，是交通要道。在黄檗山虚白禅师未建东山石拱桥之前，游人要渡过东溪，方能来到寺庙朝拜，可以说非船莫渡。当年的东溪两岸，翠竹丛生，林木葱郁，河水清澈。</section><section></section><section><section><section><section><section><p><strong>叁</strong></p></section></section><section class="empty_paragraph"></section></section></section><section data-width="94%"><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><p><strong>黄檗禅师兴寺</strong></p></section></section><section></section></section><section><section>东山建寺二百年后，一场突如其来的灾难降临。据1992 年版《宁化县志》载：“因住持僧古如师徒从事反清复明活动，事败，僧舍被焚，仅存中殿。”后来，“三山僧虚白来宁，毅然以兴复旧刹为已任，得到当时县官赞许，与居士共同乐助重建。”</section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><section><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.fqlook.com/forum/20230316172536front1_0_155891_FsHI3IN1MqUUU_2UE0LHsRzsQGUW.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" alt="" width="1000" height="1393" data-qf-origin="forum/20230316172536front1_0_155891_FsHI3IN1MqUUU_2UE0LHsRzsQGUW.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" /></p><section>这里所说“三山僧虚白”，就是隐元禅师法嗣超愿虚白禅师。据道光《黄檗山寺志》记载，超愿虚白禅师俗籍福清江阴，十五岁出家，后到石竹山狮子岩参隐元禅师。隐元禅师“一见器之，携入檗山”，并在隐元禅师座下受具足戒。之后来到浙江嘉兴金粟寺参费隐通容禅师，后又回到黄檗山，成为隐元禅师侍者。之后，超愿虚白禅师来到南平，“隐松溪白云庵”。白云庵，又叫鸾峰庵，始建于明洪武十二年（1379）。在白云庵，超愿虚白禅师“偶有江西之行，路由汀州宁化，缁素肯留。”一次偶然机会，超愿虚白禅师要去江西，路过宁化的时候，被当地的僧俗之士恳切挽留。留下来后，“重兴东山古刹，建东山桥。”</section><section></section><section></section><section>按《黄檗山寺志》记载，兴寺、建桥是“甲辰秋落成”，也就是康熙三年（1664）落成。那么，超愿虚白禅师是哪年来到宁化的呢？据《宁化县志》载，“康熙甲辰（1664），莆阳诸宰官敦清虚公还主黄檗，在此净修七载”。也就是说，在康熙三年，大桥落成后，就被莆田的地方官员请回到黄檗山，以此往前推七年，是顺治十四年（1657）。这一年，超愿虚白禅师来到宁化，重兴东山。<p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.fqlook.com/forum/20230316172556front1_0_155891_FoTVyVpe43BNhvZGCZ2aZJdzcyIA.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" alt="" width="1080" height="375" data-qf-origin="forum/20230316172556front1_0_155891_FoTVyVpe43BNhvZGCZ2aZJdzcyIA.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" /></p><section><section><section><section><p><strong>肆</strong></p></section></section><section><img class="rich_pages wxw-img" src="http://localhost:48765/hevc?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_png%2FLjib4So7yuWguGG1dxVuZg7ibyXgZcIIibf0MT3PPz78NcghHRVUXTXNGwJpOE28HRzRbnSnZZQ5pavMZPb1r7Tvw%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Dpng%26tp%3Dwxpic%26wxfrom%3D5%26wx_lazy%3D1%26wx_co%3D1&type=png" alt="图片" crossorigin="anonymous" data-ratio="0.25892857142857145" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_png/Ljib4So7yuWguGG1dxVuZg7ibyXgZcIIibf0MT3PPz78NcghHRVUXTXNGwJpOE28HRzRbnSnZZQ5pavMZPb1r7Tvw/640?wx_fmt=png" data-w="112" data-width="100%" data-index="11" data-fail="0" /></section></section></section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><p><strong>寻迹东山古渡</strong></p></section></section><section></section></section><section><p>一位义工阿姨说，寺里现住有两位僧尼，但今天都不在寺院。阿姨说，师父们出门的时候，一般叫她来帮着看庙。阿姨拨通了住持的电话，我接过电话，告诉她我来自福清黄檗山，清朝顺治年间，黄檗山的一位禅师要到江西去，路过宁化，因为僧众挽留，便留在宁化重修东山寺，还建造了东山桥。我这次来，专门带来了《黄檗祖师之光》，里面有虚白禅师的小传。住持说她已经出来两天了，今天赶不回来，书籍资料留在寺院即可。住持慈悲，还让帮着看庙的阿姨给我们做了午斋。</p><p> </p><p>过斋后，我们走出斋堂，只见堂前门边，靠着一块赭黄色砂岩墓碑。碑文刻着“万历三十五年六月吉日安葬，名示寂师广惠、了华和尚墓，孝徒僧道胜，孙成显、成奥正佛，崇祯十二年九月庚申日合葬重修”等字样。万历三十五年是1607年，距今已逾400年，可谓该寺历史沧桑的见证。</p><p> </p><p>据说，东山古寺属卧虎形，像一只老虎卧于东山下。山门为虎头，虎尾横扫江边，两眼古井即为虎眼。虎尾之处，有一株数百年的古树，立于江畔。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.fqlook.com/forum/20230316172616front1_0_155891_FjgkVbjO8yLlCENEB9OvyijbEBrw.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" alt="" width="1000" height="1333" data-qf-origin="forum/20230316172616front1_0_155891_FjgkVbjO8yLlCENEB9OvyijbEBrw.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" /></p><p>我们走出寺门，循着东溪左岸寻找“东山古渡”。溪岸树木寥寥，杂草丛生，只见眼前田畴，想必是过去农耕的寺田。一座三孔、两墩、二十目的大石桥，横卧在东溪之上。这里，曾是虚白禅师所建东山桥的所在。如今，寺院的两眼古井还剩一口，那株古树已经老去，旁边长出了新干，横跨东溪的石桥，也由虚白禅师所修的石拱桥，变成了公路石桥。但是，从福清到宁化，从侨乡到苏区，从黄檗到东山，几百年来凝聚起的殊胜法缘、地缘，却成为八闽大地的文化记忆，一刻未曾磨灭……</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.fqlook.com/forum/20230316172637front1_0_155891_FjE69uUeSBkhRlfWdvT1MCi2dbNR.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" alt="" width="1080" height="810" data-qf-origin="forum/20230316172637front1_0_155891_FjE69uUeSBkhRlfWdvT1MCi2dbNR.jpg?watermark/3/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLmZxbG9vay5jb20vYWRtaW5fRnYyNzVpbW1Hd0xnX0dTQ29mTWFoR3VkOHBiRC5wbmc=/dissolve/100/gravity/South/dx/10/dy/65/text/QOaZtOWkqTc4MA==/fontsize/400/dissolve/100/gravity/South/fill/I2E4YThhOA==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/10/dy/35" /></p><p> </p><p><strong>撰文：福建省黄檗禅文化研究院副院长</strong></p><section><strong>白撞雨</strong></section><section><strong>高山</strong></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section> </div>

周绍瀛 发表于 2023-3-16 19:46:14

宁化清流归化，路隘林深苔滑。今日向何方？直指武夷山下。山上山下，风展红旗如画。

半度微凉 发表于 2023-3-16 21:25:04

黄檗祖师之光！

LYly 发表于 2023-3-17 07:17:28

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暖心发表于 2023-3-17 09:40:39

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梦想何先生 发表于 2023-3-17 18:23:10

看起来很清净的地方

页: [1]

看福清's Archiver

苏区里的黄檗古刹